Córdoba, Argentina

Córdoba is the second largest city in Argentina; nevertheless, at the only one tenth the size of Buenos Aires it makes the third city of 1.3 million people that we have visited in the past ten days (Montevideo and Quito being the other two). The definite highlight of our time in Córdoba was the hospitality provided by our hosts at Tango Hostel. Their graciousness never stopped from taking us out to play soccer, pointing us in the right direction of an outdoor swimming pool, taking us dancing until eight in the morning, or merely just hanging out and getting to know each other. Their most gracious event, however, was the incredible Christmas dinner they prepared for us. There was a large conglomeration of Americans, Europeans, Australians, and Canadians all together with nowhere to go for Christmas Eve and Tango Hostel prepared a three course meal complete with pasta, pork, sushi, deserts, wine, and champagne at midnight. I have to admit I missed not having fondue, but I am really appreciative of how this hostel went all out for us at Christmas.

The region of Córdoba is most famous for being a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it was the center of the Jesuit evangelist movement of the southern cone of South America. As many of you know, I am rather critical of evangelist movements, but I have to admit I was impressed by the methods employed by the Jesuits in this region: Their two fundamental principles were education and sustainable agricultural production. The Jesuits came offering education, paying jobs, and food for the natives in exchange for their faith. This may or may not be a fair trade, but I am more accepting of this type of evangelism rather of the kind that forces one to convert under fear of persecution, violence, or damnation. Evidence of this Jesuit power is still evident in the many impressive churches, farming estates, and universities built by the Jesuits and still in use today.

Another highlight of our time in Córdoba was our visit to the village of Alta Gracia and the childhood home of Ernesto “Che” Guevara. Che is an interesting character that tends to be either idolized for his unrelenting pursuit of justice and equality or hated for the amount of killing and destruction he caused throughout the Americas. Interestingly this museum seemed to only focus on the former, inclusively treating the Cuban Revolution as a triumph of justice, rather than a bloody war which left a dictator that has since been in power for 49 years. Regardless of your opinion on Che, I highly recommend the movie Motorcycle Diaries which recounts a young Che’s journeys through South America atop a motorcycle. Not only is this movie stunningly gorgeous but one can really see the nascent passion for justice in this character that will eventually become “Che” Guevara. I have included a picture I took at this museum with the following (translated into English):